Mauritius villa holidays: How self-catering can beat a luxury resort

On our final morning at Villa Joya, a spectacular breakfast filled the table overlooking our garden and the beach beyond: a kaleidoscope of tropical fruit, freshly made crepes (gluten-free for our two coeliacs), smoked marlin with poached eggs, and my favourite Mauritian vanilla tea steeping in the pot.

Just 48 hours earlier, I had scoffed to my husband that a private chef seemed an unnecessary indulgence. But now, reflecting on a series of outstanding meals tailored to our family’s diverse tastes and dietary requirements, I was left wondering how I was going to manage the rest of my life without Chef Kumar.

We had booked through villa rental agency Oazure. The chef was its suggestion – an option many guests choose – on the basis that staying in a villa shouldn’t mean feeling less spoilt than you would in a luxury resort. Daily maid service was included too, and the agency could even arrange in-villa spa treatments.

A self-catering holiday with a chef and maid sounded like cheating, but it was becoming clear that, in Mauritius, self-catering doesn’t mean doing everything yourself.

Staying outside a resort means you are free to choose your own adventure. You aren’t even tied to one location: we split our time between villas in the lively north of the island and the unspoilt south, making it easier to see more of Mauritius in the time we had.

Resorts don’t have a monopoly on beautiful beaches. Villa Joya sits on a quiet stretch of sand between two upmarket hotels, offering the same soft sand, waving palms and turquoise lagoon, but without the need to compete for a sun lounger. Unlike our resort neighbours, we didn’t have to book ahead or sign waivers when we fancied getting out on the water: we simply grabbed the villa’s kayaks from the garden and paddled across the lagoon.

We also took advantage of the island’s small size and good roads and explored by car. Having our own kitchen meant we didn’t have to cram our adventures into the window between hotel mealtimes; we could see where the day took us. We could head off early to watch dolphins on the west coast, pause when a stunning mountain or waterfall demanded our attention, detour to a colourful temple, or finish the day on Flic-en-Flac Beach watching the sun fade into the ocean.

We booked excursions through local company Indibleu. Our children chose a guided visit to Ile aux Aigrettes, a nature reserve managed by the Mauritian Wildlife Foundation. There we marvelled at rare giant tortoises and pink pigeons, helped plant endemic seedlings, and learned about the demise of Mauritius’ most famous former resident, the dodo. It was an outing that could easily have been sacrificed in favour of a hotel kids’ club – but became one of the unexpected highlights of our trip.

Mauritius is perceived as a luxury destination, partly because many visitors choose upmarket hotels. With flights already a significant expense, self-catering can reduce the overall cost, particularly for groups or longer stays. And, of course, you don’t have to take up the option of a private chef.

A villa gave our family far more space than a hotel room crammed with extra beds, with the added advantage of a private garden, pool and sun loungers. We traded buffet scrums for laid-back barbecues, kids’ clubs for family snorkelling trips, evening entertainment for board games and chats about the day’s adventures. Having somewhere that felt like our own, where we could relax together, was a luxury in itself.

The freedom to choose our own menu helped us budget. Shopping for ingredients at markets and buying direct from fishermen as they bring their catch ashore isn’t just money-saving; it’s enjoyable, offers a glimpse of everyday life and supports local people. Mauritius’ food culture, shaped by African, Indian, Chinese and European influences, comes alive in its markets. Tables groan with salted fish, vegetables and spices, and vendors on bicycles serve traditional favourites such as dholl puri, flatbreads filled with ground split peas and served with curries. Staying within the resort bubble would have meant missing out on tips from market traders on the best way to cook manioc and bold street-food choices that paid off.

For a short stay, honeymoon or wellness holiday, the ease of a resort is hard to beat. For our family, the ability to follow our own rhythm and slip into local life was more appealing than resort convenience. But it is possible to have both.

Several Mauritian resorts offer self-catering villas with access to hotel facilities. At Heritage The Villas, we stayed in a large four-bedroom house with its own pool while enjoying the restaurants, kids’ clubs and spas of the neighbouring Heritage resorts, as well as their championship golf courses. Other options include Constance Le Chaland’s two and four-bedroom pool villas, and a beachfront villa at Le Jadis Resort and Wellness.

What struck me most about our villa stays was how quickly Mauritius began to feel less like a holiday destination and more like a real place. The lagoons, palms and spectacular sunsets were still there, but they became part of a bigger picture. After 30 years of visiting the island, I’ve come to realise that perhaps the best way to experience Mauritius is to travel a little less like a visitor.

Oazure Villas (www.oazure.com) three-bedroom villa per night: $530–$1500

Private chef per day: $350

Excursions: www.indibleu.com

Car hire: www.europcar.com

The writer’s trip was partly self-funded and partly hosted