For Kate Holland, Adelaide’s Monet to Matisse exhibition inspires a 24-hour mother-daughter city staycation, with art and creativity at the heart of their itinerary.
Perusing art in Paris has a certain appeal; this is true. But right now, New Zealanders can save thousands of travel miles and significant hours by heading across the Ditch to Adelaide to see many standout pieces. My recent staycation also revealed other artistic offerings in the CBD bound to inspire your creative juices.
When an offer to attend the media launch for Monet to Matisse: Defying Tradition landed in my inbox, I knew an overnighter in town with my artistic daughter would go up plenty of notches. High tea suddenly had high art as the appetiser. The kind of art I’d saved thousands for to see when travelling Europe in my early 20s.
Organised by the Toledo Museum of Art in Ohio, the exhibition explores a transformative period in art history through iconic works by leading European and American artists of the 19th and 20th centuries. It features masterworks never seen in Australia, plus a selection from the Art Gallery of South Australia (AGSA) collection, and it’s fabulous.
I was struck at once by the realism and glow of Jules Breton’s The Shepherd’s Star. Then gobsmacked by the texture of Impressionist works, all of which demand to be seen in person. And no, not just Renoir, van Gogh and Monet.
We were enthralled by Robert Henri’s Cathedral Woods, Monhegan Island, which depicts a dark forest bathed in dappled light. Close up, the trees are brown blobs. From further back, the forest appears and the light delights, just as it does in nature. I returned several times to Paul Signac’s Entrance to the Grand Canal, Venice. The locale was immediately recognisable and emotive, created with thousands of gentle horizontal strokes. Mind-blowing.
It would be remiss not to mention the “hero” piece, Monet’s Water Lilies, which deserved its own wall. Like many, we paused to admire the depth of expression and fusion of colour.
We debated the merits of abstract art (my daughter has strong thoughts on “contrived meanings”), enjoyed seeing Piet Mondrian’s combination of cubes and primary colours in real life. And I fell in love with a quirky little caricature by Paul Klee.
This was the debut exhibition in AGSA’s Winter Art Series. It includes a series of public programmes and events. I’m considering ducking back in before it closes on November 8 for a late-night soiree in the Monet to Matisse champagne lounge, or the free immersive activity space to create my own artwork guided by on-site artists. Take note: AGSA’s ongoing vision is bold, and the bar is set high.
Winter Art Series aside, there’s always plenty of great art across the gallery. We wound our way past go-to favourites by Sidney Nolan and Hans Heysen, and the slightly terrifying headless horse in the Melrose Wing.
It was high time for high tea.
Some of the delicious desserts at Koomo (level 10 at the nearby Crowne Plaza where we were staying) were also an art form. Thin layers of coloured chocolate wrapped delicately around soft, oozing centres. We settled our glucose levels by meandering in and out of shops along Rundle St on our way to Adelaide’s pedestrian shopping strip, Rundle Mall.
About a third of the way down, round two of artistic inspiration began in Adelaide Arcade, a stunning historical site dating to 1885 and home to plenty of artisan creators. Think pencraft, pattern making, cobblers, hats, wigs, handcrafted chocolate, leatherwork and bespoke jewellery.
The Button Bar proved functional doesn’t have to mean generic. The range of colours, shapes and sizes had my daughter’s eyes bugging out of her head. She’s an artist and a thrifter with a growing sewing-machine habit. At Dulcie’s Vintage, we spotted retro items that once bore holes, creatively upcycled into timeless statement pieces. Dulcie’s was established to reduce fabric waste in landfill and support people experiencing homelessness and disadvantage. One hundred per cent of the earnings get split between two local charities.
Outside Arcade Cobblers & Locksmiths, I spotted a modern-day take on 19th-century governess-style shoes. The colour and craftsmanship were stunning. And these are shoes that would last. If only a horse and wagon awaited us, we would have left OmMade Meet the Maker with loaded arms. The collective retail space showcases local South Australian makers, from ceramics and resin art to jewellery, candles and handcrafted accessories. A tilted wine glass is still calling my name.
We lingered so long at street level that we never made it upstairs, nor did we manage the full 520m wander through the Mall and down Hindley St (a slightly classier stretch in daylight) to the West End, itself a hive of creative activity. Nestled near the Morphett St Bridge is Ace, South Australia’s leading independent contemporary visual arts organisation; Nexus Arts Gallery, which showcases emerging and established artists from diverse cultural backgrounds; and JamFactory, which has supported craft and design for more than 50 years. You can watch artisans in action at the latter, and my family has been known to watch glass blowing for hours. Just as we thought the piece was complete, they’d stun us by poking it back into the fire to reshape it again.
Choosing dinner that night was easy. Plenty of restaurants along Rundle St and East Tce are known for their culinary creations. We snuck in one more shop before bed. I’ve lusted after clothing at Miss Gladys Sym Choon since I was a teenager. It has a fascinating backstory and has been an iconic shop for decades. Two levels of striking fashion and an ongoing commitment to innovation and good design – the place where many “about to be famous” young designers launched their careers. It caters for men and women, especially the stylish ones.
Back in our Frome St room that night, The Crowne was quiet. We slept like logs, then headed back to Koomo for a buffet breakfast before checking out at 11am, feeling proud of our city. Ready to recommend it to all and sundry. And ready to get creative.
Details
Adelaide is hosting the Australian-exclusive exhibition Monet to Matisse: Defying Tradition until November 8.
The writer travelled at their own expense.