Weekend wine guide: Villa Maria’s ‘icon’ wines are worth seeking out
Villa Maria produces a vast array of wines under its Private Bin (in reality huge volume), Cellar Selection, Earth Garden (organic), Reserve and Single Vineyard labels. Its quartet of “icon” wines – although not labelled as such – are promoted as “flagship wines, made only when exceptionally rare conditions produce truly outstanding wines”.
These are classy, high-priced, memorable wines, full of personality.
Villa Maria Keltern Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2022
★★★★★
This arresting wine springs from an inland site, east of Maraekakaho, cooled by air currents flowing from ranges to the west. Grown in silt loam soils over red metals, it was hand-harvested, fermented with “wild” (indigenous) yeasts, and matured for more than a year in French oak barriques (55% new). It is mouthfilling, rich and savoury. Notably complex, it has deep, ripe, stonefruit flavours that are enriched with nutty oak, lively acidity, and a long, very harmonious finish. Already highly approachable, it should break into full stride mid-2025+. (13.5% alc/vol) $90
Villa Maria Woven Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2023
★★★★★
Grown in a vineyard surrounding Villa Maria’s Marlborough winery at Fairhall, in the Wairau Valley, this youthful wine was fermented and aged in French oak barrels (mostly seasoned). It is weighty, rich and lingering. Full-bodied and vibrant, it has concentrated, tropical fruit flavours, gently overlaid with oak, excellent vibrancy and complexity, and a dry, finely textured finish. (14% alc/vol) $60
Villa Maria Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Ngakirikiri 2021
★★★★★